α-irbutinkwaye β-arbutin ziicocima zemichiza emibini ehambelana nayo ihlala isetyenziswa kwiimveliso ze-skercares ezikhanyayo kunye neziphumo zokukhanya. Ngelixa babelana ngesakhiwo esifanayo esifanayo kunye nendlela yesenzo, kukho umahluko obufihlakeleyo phakathi kwezi zinto zinokuchaphazela ukusebenza kwabo kunye neziphumo ebezinokubakho.
Ngolwakhiwo, zombini i-α-arbutin kunye ne-β-i-arbutin yi-gelycossides ye-hydroquinone, okuthetha ukuba i-guccose molecule iqhotyoshelwe kwi-hydroquinone molecule. Olu hluko lolwakhiwo luvumela zombini ii-computer ukuba zithintele i-enzyme tyrosinase, ebandakanyekayo kwimveliso ye-mpunin. Ngokuphathelele i-tyrosinase, le mijikelezo inokunceda ukunciphisa ukuveliswa kwe-melanin, ekhokelela kwisibane esikhaphukhaphu kunye nethoni yolusu.
Umahluko ophambili phakathi kwe-α-arbutin kunye ne-β-arbutin ilele kwisikhundla se-Glycosidic Bond phakathi kweglucose kunye ne-hydroquinone moies:
I-Arbutin: kwi-α-arbutin, i-gelycosidic ye-Glycosidic iqhotyoshelwe kwindawo ye-alpha ye-hydroquinone. Oku kubekho kukholelwa ukuba kuphuculwe uzinzo kunye nomoya wokuluka kwe-α-irbutin, owenza isebenze ngakumbi kwisicelo solusu. I-Glycosidic ye-Glycosidic inciphisa igalelo le-oxidation ye-hydroquinone, enokukhokelela ekumiselweni kweendawo ezimnyama ezichasene nefuthe elifunwayo lolusu olunqwenelekayo.
β-Arbutin: kwi-β-Arbutin, i-Glycosidic yeBhycosidi iqhotyoshelwe kwi-Beta ye-Beta ye-Hydroquinone. Ngelixa i-β-i-arbutin ikwasebenza kwi-Teminase, inokuzinza kancinci kune-α-irbutin kwaye ityeke ngakumbi kwi-oxidation. Le axidetion inokubangela ukumiselwa kweendlela ezimdaka ezinqwenelekayo ezinqwenelekayo kulusu.
Ngenxa yozinzo kunye nomoya obalaseleyo, i-α-i-arbutin ihlala ithathwa njengefom esebenzayo neyithandayo yezicelo. Kukholelwa ekunikezeleni iziphumo ezingcono zolusu kwaye zincinci ukubangela iziphumo zokwazisa okanye ezingafunekiyo.
Xa ujonga iimveliso ze-Skenare eziqulathei-arbutin, kubalulekile ukuba ufunde ileyibhile ye-antrement ukufumanisa ukuba i-α-arbutin okanye β-arbutin isetyenziswa. Ngelixa zombini iziqu ezinokubakho zinokusebenza, i-Arbutiin ithathelwa ingqalelo njengolukhetho oluphezulu ngenxa yozinzo oluphuculweyo kunye ne-potency.
Ibalulekile into ebalulekileyo ukuba iqaphele ukuba imvakalelo yesikhumba yolusu inokwahluka. Abanye abantu banokufumana iziphumo ebezingalindelekanga ezinjengokucaphuka kolusu okanye ukubomvu xa kusetyenziswa iimveliso eziqukethe i-arbutin. Njengaso nasiphi na isithako se-skickcare, kuyacetyiswa ukuba senze uvavanyo lwe-patch ngaphambi kokufaka imveliso kwindawo enkulu yolusu kunye nokubonisana ne-dermatologist ukuba unayo nayiphi na inkxalabo malunga nokuphendula okunokubakho.
Ukuqukumbela, zombini i-α-arbutin kunye ne-β-i-arbutin yi-Glycossides ye-hydroquindone esetyenziselwa iziphumo zolusu. Nangona kunjalo, indawo ye-arbutin ye-Glycossidic ye-Glycosidic kwindawo ye-alpha inika uzinzo olukhulu kwaye inyibilike, isenza ukuba kubekho khetho oluhle kakhulu kwiimveliso ze-skercare ezijolise ekunciphiseni ithoni yolusu.
IXESHA LOKUQALA: AUG-30 ukuya kwi-2023