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Zithini iimpawu zokusetyenziswa kweGlabridin, enefuthe elinamandla lokwenza mhlophe kuneVitamin C kunye neNiacinamide?

Yayisaziwa ngokuba yi "golide emhlophe", kwaye udumo lwayo lukwimpembelelo yayo engenakuthelekiswa nanto yokwenza mhlophe kwelinye icala, kunye nobunzima kunye nokunqongophala kokukhupha kwayo kwelinye icala. Isityalo iGlycyrrhiza glabra singumthombo weGlabridin, kodwa iGlabridin ibandakanya kuphela i-0.1%-0.3% yomxholo wayo uphela, oko kukuthi, i-1000kg yeGlycyrrhiza glabra inokufumana kuphela i-100g yeIGlabridin, i-1g yeGlabridin ilingana ne-1g yegolide ebonakalayo.
IHikarigandine ngummeli oqhelekileyo wezithako zemifuno, kwaye isiphumo sayo sokuba mhlophe sifunyenwe yiJapan
IGlycyrrhiza glabra sisityalo sohlobo lweGlycyrrhiza. ITshayina lilizwe elinezityalo ezityebileyo kwihlabathi, kwaye kukho iintlobo ezingaphezu kwama-500 zezityalo ezisetyenziswayo kwizonyango, phakathi kwazo ezona zisetyenziswa kakhulu yilicorice. Ngokwezibalo, izinga lokusetyenziswa kwelicorice lingaphezulu kwama-79%.
Ngenxa yembali ende yokusetyenziswa kwayo, ehamba nodumo oluphezulu, ububanzi bophando malunga nexabiso le-licorice aluzange ludlule nje kuphela kwimida yejografi, kodwa nokusetyenziswa kwayo kwandisiwe. Ngokophando, abathengi baseAsia, ingakumbi eJapan, bayazihlonela kakhulu izithambiso ezinezithako ezisebenzayo zezityalo. Izithako zezityalo ezili-114 zirekhodwe kwi-"Japan's General Cosmetics Raw Materials", kwaye sele kukho iintlobo ezingama-200 zezithambiso ezinezithako zezityalo eJapan.

Iyaziwa ukuba inefuthe elimhlophe kakhulu, kodwa ziziphi iingxaki ekusetyenzisweni kwayo?

Inxalenye ye-licorice extract engathathi manzi ineentlobo ngeentlobo ze-flavonoids. Njengenxalenye ephambili yenxalenye yayo engathathi manzi, i-halo-glycyrrhizidine inefuthe lokuthintela ukuveliswa kwe-melanin kwaye ikwanazo neziphumo zokuchasana nokuvuvukala kunye ne-anti-oxidant.
Olunye ulwazi lovavanyo lubonisa ukuba isiphumo sokuba mhlophe kweGlabridin ekhanyayo siphezulu ngokuphindwe ka-232 kunesevithamini C eqhelekileyo, siphezulu ngokuphindwe ka-16 kunesehydroquinone, kwaye siphezulu ngokuphindwe ka-1,164 kunese-arbutin. Malunga nendlela yokufezekisa umsebenzi wokuba mhlophe onamandla, iGlabridin ekhanyayo inika iindlela ezintathu ezahlukeneyo.

1. Ukuthintela umsebenzi we-tyrosinase
Indlela ephambili yokwenza mhlopheIGlabridinkukuthintela ukwenziwa kwe-melanin ngokuthintela ngokukhuphisana umsebenzi we-tyrosinase, ukususa inxalenye ye-tyrosinase kwiringi ye-catalytic yokwenziwa kwe-melanin kunye nokuthintela ukubopha kwe-substrate kwi-tyrosinase.
2. Isiphumo se-Antioxidant
Ingathintela zombini umsebenzi we-tyrosinase kunye ne-dopa pigment exchange kunye nomsebenzi we-dihydroxyindole carboxylic acid oxidase.
Kuye kwaboniswa ukuba xa ixutywe yi-0.1mg/ml, i-photoglycyrrhizidine inokusebenza kwinkqubo ye-cytochrome P450/NADOH oxidation kwaye ikhuphe i-67% yee-free radicals, ezinomsebenzi onamandla we-antioxidant.

3.Nqanda izinto ezibangela ukudumba kwaye ulwe ne-UV
Okwangoku, uphando oluncinci luye lwabikwa malunga nokusetyenziswa kwe-photoglycyrrhizidine kuphononongo lwe-UV-induced skin photoaging. Ngo-2021, kwinqaku elikwi-core journal Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology, ii-photoglycyrrhizidine liposomes zafundwa ngenxa yokukwazi kwazo ukuphucula i-UV light-induced erythema kunye nesifo solusu ngokuthintela izinto ezibangela ukudumba. Ii-Photoglycyrrhizidine liposomes zingasetyenziselwa ukuphucula ukufumaneka kwezinto eziphilayo kunye ne-cytotoxicity encinci kunye nokuthintela okungcono kwe-melanin, ukunciphisa ngempumelelo ukubonakaliswa kwee-cytokines ezivuthayo, i-interleukin 6 kunye ne-interleukin 10. Ke ngoko, ingasetyenziswa njengearhente yonyango yokunyanga engaphandle ukulwa nomonakalo wolusu obangelwa yimitha ye-UV ngokuthintela ukudumba, okunokubonelela ngeengcinga ezithile zophando lweemveliso zokukhusela ukukhanya kwelanga.
Ngamafutshane, isiphumo sokuba mhlophe kwe-photoglycyrrhizidine siyaqatshelwa, kodwa uhlobo lwayo alunyibiliki emanzini, ngoko ke ifuna kakhulu inkqubo yokuvelisa kunye nokuvelisa xa kusetyenziswa ukongeza kwemveliso yokhathalelo lolusu, kwaye okwangoku sisisombululo esilungileyo ngetekhnoloji ye-liposome encapsulation. Ngaphezu koko, ifotoIGlabridinIi-liposomes zinokuthintela ukufota okubangelwa yi-UV, kodwa lo msebenzi udinga iimvavanyo ezininzi zeklinikhi ukuze kuqinisekiswe kwaye kusetyenziswe izicelo zophando.

Iimveliso zokhathalelo lolusu eziqulethe i-photoGlabridin ngendlela yokudibanisa izithako.

Nangona kungekho mathandabuzo ukuba i-photoGlabridine inefuthe elihle kakhulu lokwenza mhlophe, ixabiso layo lezinto eziluhlaza nalo liphezulu ngenxa yobunzima bokukhupha kunye nomxholo. Kwi-cosmetic R&D, umsebenzi wokulawula iindleko uqhagamshelwe ngokuthe ngqo nomxholo wetekhnoloji kunye nenkqubo yesayensi. Ke ngoko, yindlela elungileyo yokulawula iindleko zeefomyula kunye nokufikelela kumgangatho okhuselekileyo nosebenzayo ngokukhetha izithako ezisebenzayo kunye nokuzidibanisa ekudibaniseni ne-photoglycyrrhizidine. Ukongeza kwinqanaba le-R&D, kufuneka uphando olongezelelweyo malunga nophando lwee-liposomes ze-photoglycyrrhizidine kunye neendlela zamva nje zokukhupha.


Ixesha lokuthumela: Agasti-30-2022